A little piece of Britain called Dubai

Imagine this for a minute. You step out for your weekly shop at Waitrose, picking up some plump British strawberries. Then you stop at Boots to pick up your No.7 anti-ageing cream. After which, you stop for a spot of lunch at Carluccios. Before browsing through the latest UK bestsellers at Borders.

We all love the British high street. Especially when it’s situated in balmy Dubai.

Welcome to mini Britain. Without the bad weather. Dubai is awash with British accents – be it Brummie, Liverpudlian or Cockney. Every high street brand worth its name has a presence in Dubai’s myriad malls – take your pick from Monsoon, Topshop, H&M, French Connection and more. Wherever you turn, there’s something or someone British.

No wonder thousands of Brits move to Dubai – it’s expat paradise. All the comforts of home and none of the terrible weather. No taxes to pay and juicy expat salaries to play with. Maids walking a few steps behind you, carrying those purchases from Harvey Nicks. Drivers to pick you up and drop you off to afternoon tea with the girls. Nannies to soothe and take care of little ones, as you walk along the marina admiring the yachts.

However, before you start packing your bags for Dubai – there is one thing to consider. Before you book that flight, take a good look at yourself in the mirror – what colour is your skin? If it’s not the right one, you may find your Dubai dream rapidly turning into a nightmare.

UK’s been home to me for over 7 years. Of all the things I love about this country, its secular belief system is the most important to me personally. Whether I have brown skin or white, whether I’m a Hindu or Buddhist or choose to live in a cave with bats in order to pursue my spiritual beliefs – I am treated exactly the same as everyone else.

In only a matter of decades, Dubai has grown at a dizzying pace overtaking every other country in the region. The tall skyscrapers reflect the towering ambitions of the country, and they still stand tall inspite of its recent economic troubles. And those living in Dubai live, breathe and wear that dream – designer gear and accessories, snazzy cars and penthouses are considered necessities not luxuries. But the gleaming façade is just that.

My Indian friends who’ve lived in Dubai over the last decade complain bitterly about their ineffectual bosses, hired solely for the colour of their skin. I’ve even been told that if you approach a company in Dubai and you’re white – your salary is automatically about 20% higher. Just like that.

Walking down Dubai’s myriad malls, you’ll see for yourself that 8 out of 10 British expats living in Dubai are Caucasian.

Most companies in Dubai hire white employees for their top positions – it’s a matter of prestige.  Almost like having a smart office or cool website  – it’s expected. They employ the local Emiratis, because they have to under local law. The bulk of the workforce is made up of Indians, Bangladeshis and Philippinos. All of whom work have to work a lot harder and are paid much lower salaries than either the Europeans or the Emiratis.

The only thing worse than being brown in Dubai is being brown and working as a maid or driver. The moment you arrive in the country to start your job, your passport’s taken away. And you cease to exist as an individual. Your life is pretty much dependent on the whims and fancies of your employer. And there’s not a lot you can do about it.

Of course, as a woman, there are few places as safe as Dubai. You could be walking around town at 2 am and no one would dare bother you. Because the penalty for harrassing women is incredibly harsh. But if you are a Philippino maid working for a high-ranking Emirati for instance, things can go very differently.

Here in the UK, we do read a lot in the British media about women in Dubai jailed for kissing in public or some other indiscretion. But I was told that unless you choose to flaunt your private life in public, the authorities do turn a blind eye and let you get on with your life, however you choose to live it.

Inspite of the current economic climate in Dubai, British nationals are still moving over with jobs and families. Most people initially come for a few years, and end up staying for decades. It is so easy to be seduced by the easy life, good weather and great lifestyle.
Before you know it, you’ll find yourself owning several flashy cars, wearing designer threads and walking into the newest nightclubs. As long your skin’s the right shade, of course.

The glittering, glitzy dream that is Dubai has a dark underbelly. Or, should that be, white underbelly.